The Art of the Taco

Los tacos de Tacodeli: fish (left) and the peerless Frontera Fundido

Tacodeli has perfected the taco with a little number they like to call Frontera Fundido. This sublime example of the taqueriador's art is chunks of toothsome pot roast with fried onions and crisp poblano peppers. The secret ingredient is the mysterious "mouth-watering cheese glaze." I can't explain what a "cheese glaze" is.

Tacodeli appears to adhere to the usual bullshit patriarchal class structure. White male models from the Urban Outfitters catalog run the place, while the exceptional Frontera Fundidos are assembled by small Mexican women hidden from public view by a dirty curtain.